Tartófla Savigno, Michelin star dining

Tartófla

It didn’t take much convincing for us to board a bus early one morning to make the one hour trip from Bologna to a small town called Savigno. We were invited by Bologna Welcome and the organizer of the annual white truffle festival, Tartófla, to enjoy a day of everything truffles.

Tartófla is an annual festival dedicated to the white truffle, one of the most prized ingredients in gastronomy and a personal favourite of mine. Savigno is quickly putting itself on the map as one of the best hunting grounds for the finest white truffles in the world, rivaling Alba on the other side of the country for quality and size found in the beautiful rolling Appennine mountains of Emilia-Romagna. 

Savigno

Arriving in Savigno, our day would begin at the biggest truffle distribution company in the region, Appennino Food. An amazing company that produces an array of incredibly high-quality foods and specializes in all things truffle. Our host was Luigi, one of two brothers who started the company in 1994 and now distributes truffles all around the world, fresh during truffle hunting season and packaged in various forms throughout the year.

Happy and charismatic

A very happy and charismatic fellow, Luigi took his time to explain the various types of truffles found throughout Italy and the region and their value.

Although there are five varieties found during the year there are only three varieties that are deemed suitable for consumption. The white truffle (Tuber magnatum pico) is at the top of the list with a unique and pungent aroma smelling somewhat floral with an intense umami of earth and fungus. The white truffle is never cooked but shaved or grated raw over the desired dish.

The second truffle on the list would be the black winter truffle (Tuber uncinatum) which can be used more in a cooked dish and raw. Its aroma and flavour are less intense than the white, less floral and more earthy. The last is the ordinary black truffle (Tuber mesentericum) which is on the edible list but offers the least in potency and the most fleeting truffle aromas and flavour. This day, however, our attention is devoted to the white truffle which was at the height of the season in Savigno.

Like all truffles

White truffles, like all truffles, live in a symbiotic relationship with their surrounding, usually growing near hardwood trees that offer the truffle optimum soil conditions and returning the favour by delivering micronutrients and converting enzymes for the tree, yet there is no physical connection with a truffle and its host. Interestingly once a truffle or truffles are discovered in a location they will be found there year after year, hence the secrecy of the most valued truffle grounds and their protection. Truffles can also be found in columns growing vertically and it is not uncommon to find more as you dig a little deeper in the same spot. We heard stories of hunters unearthing 6 or seven truffles digging down almost a metre.

Toured the facility

Our truffle education class over, we toured the state of the art processing facility that included an incredible half million dollar kettle that cooked (any food) in a vacuum. This allowed a much lower cooking temperature that preserved delicate flavours as with truffles, keeping the product in a sterile environment right to the packaging stage.

Undoubtedly though the best part of the tour was soaking in the scent of flats of white truffles that were maturing and waiting to be packaged and shipped. For me, it was a complete distraction and I was eager for the day to proceed.

Dressed in hunting apparel

We were joined by a handsome young man dressed in hunting apparel who would be our guide, along with a dozen or so other truffle enthusiasts, on what was described as a truffle hunt. In actuality, it turned out to be a beautiful walk in the forest where we were shown the process of hunting for truffles with the help of a super affectionate truffle dog named Macchia (spot). A Lagotto Romagnolo breed, the most common of truffle dogs in Italy, she was specifically trained to find white truffles and was more than excited to sniff one out.

Truffle grounds are very guarded

Unfortunately, though it quickly became evident that we were not seriously hunting for truffles because as we said before good truffle grounds are very guarded areas and a bus load of tourists was not going to be let in on that secret. None the less it was a splendid day for a walk and very interesting to learn more about working with a truffle dog.

Headed to town

Lunch time was quickly approaching as we headed to the town of Savigno, to Tartófla in the centre of town. It was there that we met Bruno the ring master of this growing gastronomic event who was very busy escorting a TV crew around town. Graciously he took the time to walk with us through the street pointing out vendors with unique items and recommending local delicacies (other than truffles) to try.

And of course truffles

There were many local vendors selling mushrooms, salami, chocolate, bread and of course truffles. The market area was awash in the perfume of truffles and with any sign of interest a fat white truffle was put in your hand to ogle, smell and hopefully buy. Large jars of farm fresh eggs sat on some tables that had a truffle or two in with them penetrating the shell with their aroma and flavouring the egg within.

Their fragrance everywhere

With truffles and their fragrance everywhere we turned it was all beginning to be too much and I was more than ready to eat some.

Luckily we were summoned for lunch and escorted into a huge dining tent in the town’s main square. Seated at a long communal table, little did we know how much of a treat we were in for. The wait staff, dressed smartly in suits, were all from a local hotelier school and were practicing their best service and hosting skills making us feel pampered. Bruno disappeared towards the kitchen to plan the wine pairing for our meal and returned with our sommelier, who ran through her ideas for our approval. Mostly organic wines from the area that would obviously pair well with white truffle and each preparation, the anticipation grew.

Michelin star dining

The menu was much more than you would expect sitting in a tent at a festival and for very good reason. The menus for the duration of the festival were written by Michelin star chefs Alberto Bettini, from Trattoria da Amerigo, a hundred yards down the street, Maria Grazia Soncini from La Capanna di Eraclio in Codigoro and Aurora Mazzucchelli from Ristorante Marconi in Sasso Marconi.
This was not going to be just another plate of noodles with a hint of truffles, this was Michelin star dining in a tent. Five courses paired with wine, three of which included truffles.

Our first course

Soon our first course arrived and our sommelier raced to keep up with the kitchen. Zuppa Imperiale di Funghi Porcini in Crema di Fagioli Barlotti e Tartufo Nero paired with a Negrettino from Emilia. Nice size chunks of porcini replaced the normal pasta in the soup of creamy hot bean purée that kicked up steam, rich with the smell of black truffles warming us through from our walk in the woods. The wine was perfect reflecting the very terroir where the mushrooms and truffles would have been foraged.

Next

Next was Lasagna, a native dish to Emilia Romagna, this time made with a “Ragù d’Autunna con Funghi Galetti”. No truffles on this dish but we didn’t miss them too much enjoying the pairing of a DOC Colli Bolognesi, Merlot, and the mushroom goodness.

Extra primi

The kitchen decided to slip in an extra primi after the Lasagna of a portion of Pasatelli Asciutti con Tartufo Bianco which was paired with one of my favourite white wines of the region, Pignoletto. Pasatelli is a dish from the “Cucina Povera” of Italy and is made with breadcrumbs, eggs, and Parmigiano Reggiano. Usually served in a broth, this time it was served dry with a generous shaving of white truffles. Revealed from under a domed plate cover by our servers in training, to maximize the explosion of truffle aroma upon presentation. I paused after inhaling, holding onto the mysterious aromas as long as I could, intoxicated by its complexity. If food could get you high, white truffles would be my drug of choice.

Patate di Tolè

Uova in Camicia al Tartufo Bianco con Crema di Patate di Tolè was the next dish served and again reflected the simple yet perfect execution needed to hold a Michelin star. A simple soft poached egg in a sweater (camicia) of creamy soup made with the local Tolè potato, again hit with a generous amount of white truffles. White truffles are notoriously paired with runny eggs and potatoes are a close second place so this dish could only be a winner. A crisp Colli Bolognesi, Bologna Bianco did the job well of pairing with the unadulterated truffle flavours.

White truffles and plenty of wine

Fresh air, white truffles and plenty of wine had us once again in our happy place and the promise of dessert was almost too much but who could resist a few bites of Il Pinzimonio di Torte della Nonna. A somewhat deconstructed dessert with vanilla custard for dunking cake and cookies. A frizzante Rosé from Emilia ended our lunch with bubbles floating us back out onto the main street to walk off another epic meal.

Not leaving without a truffle

Bruno once again greeted us outside confirming our enjoyment and asking whether there was anything else that would complete our day.
“I’m not leaving without a truffle!” I boldly exclaimed with a laugh.
“Ok, let’s go find Luigi!” he replied happily and rushed off leaving us to catch up. Arriving at the Appennino Food kiosk Luigi soon appeared and happily dug through a pile of truffles expertly selecting the perfect white truffle that would ripen in the next couple of days.

Staring out at the setting sun

My day was complete as we sunk like stones into our seats on the bus heading back to Bologna. Staring out at the setting sun and the beautiful countryside passing by my mind drifted on the smell of that truffle leaking its perfume from the bag at our feet, dreaming of the meals I would prepare in the upcoming days.