Tales from Slovakia:
How Potatoes, Cheese, Bacon & Vodka Are All You Need
How do I picture my dream man? I imagine he is equal parts: Bruce Willis circa Die Hard 1 badass, with the quick wit of Jon Stuart, George Harrison heart and soul (and hair), and wait, isn’t this a food blog? Fret not, I was just getting to the good part…My dream man would not be complete without a dash of Anthony Bourdain. Yes, there’s something about the crass, chain-smoking, beer-infused, rosy-cheeked American Frenchman I just can’t get enough of. He’s foodie without pretension; a man equally elated by the smell of a hot dog as he is by the truffled something-or-other served on only 10% of the surface area of a plate. Now, that’s my kinda man. Besides, he has more stamps in his passport than I do, and that, ladies and gentlemen, is pretty damn sexy.
So, as I scanned my memory for a culinary experience befitting of the honour to contribute to A Cook Not Mad, naturally, I thought to myself, what might Tony like to hear? Moreover, what hasn’t he had? Coal-oven pizza from Lombardi’s in New York City, café au lait with the most buttery of croissants in Montmartre, Kim Chi fried-anything in the bustling night markets of Seoul? Naw, he has been there and done that. But, has he been to my grandfather’s kitchen in Bratislava, Slovakia? He wishes.
The “Yellow Fleet”
My grandfather, Janko Kuruc, was a chef on cargo ships that travelled along the Red Sea and into Africa for the majority of his career. He was a part of the ‘Yellow Fleet’, the fifteen ships which were trapped along the Suez Canal between the years 1967 to 1975. During this time he played an integral, if not, the most important role on board: keepin‘ the men fed! It’s safe to say that he’s got chops.
Coming to Bratislava for the first time as an adult, I was struck by the inherent sense of feeling at home. While I was born in Canada, I was raised speaking Slovak, and eating many traditional dishes from the Central and Eastern European regions; Goulash, Chicken Paprikash, and a hell of a lot of cabbage! Suddenly, everywhere I turned, there were smells of smoked meats and paprika…delicious! Then again, I didn’t even have to leave the home where my mother was raised to find the perfect meal.
My grandfather’s Halušky
Yes, travel has played an integral role in some of the best meals I’ve had in my life, but truly nothing compares to my grandfather’s Halušky. What’s this you ask? While the rest of Eastern Europe was busy arguing over who invented the perogy, Slovakia came up with their own take on the potato dumpling. And I assure you, Halušky will be my final meal if I ever find myself on death row. Despite the fact I don’t anticipate this scenario to come into fruition in my life, it’s best to prepare for the unexpected, so if it happens, send the prison ward the following recipe:
Disclaimer: My family is not in the habit of following recipes, therefore, most measurements will be of the Eastern European variety, for example, “Use as much as you need until it’s perfect!”
- 2-3 large potatoes per serving (12 for 4 people)
- 1 egg
- flour (and I quote: “As much as you need to use!”)
- salt
- Bryndza cheese (available at specialty shops in larger cities, alternatively use feta)
- 1/4-1/2 cup sour cream or regular cream
- lots of butter
- lots of bacon
- chives
- Peel potatoes and grate them finely into a large bowl.
- Add egg and slowly add flour until you you have a batter that is neither too tough nor too watery.
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
- To ensure your batter is perfect, take a teaspoon of batter and drop in water. If your mini dumpling holds together, you know you’ve nailed it! If it falls apart, you can try to drain some of the water from the potatoes.
- In Slovakia, they use a device similar to a sieve, but with holes about half an inch in diameter throughout. I have not been able to find one in Canada, so I might suggest taking a drill to a regular pan, or laying batter out on a plate, and using a knife to meticulously drop dumplings into boiling water.
- When the halušky are finished, they will float to the top of the pot.
- Strain them and put them aside.
- In a large bowl add 1 package (about a cup) of bryndza or feta cheese.
- Add sour cream or regular cream to soften consistency.
- In a pan, melt butter until it begins to brown
- Cut bacon into small pieces and fry to your liking
- Add halušky to cheese, cover in butter, and mix so that cheese is spread evenly.
- Add bacon
- Top with chives
So there you have it; a simple meal made with love in a quaint little apartment in Slovakia. I am confident Anthony would be impressed, and if he’s out there reading this, consider this an invitation to one of the best meals you’ll ever have…and the vodka doesn’t have to stop at one shot!
My name is Suzy Sabla. My favourite colour is orange, New York City owns my heart, I listen to a lot of jazz (especially when going through an existential life crisis), I love to sing and write songs stumbling on a piano while drinking whiskey, I collect a lot of knick-knacks at garage sales and antique shops that I have no room for, and I love wearing pretty dresses. I’m happiest when I’m travelling, eating al fresco with a glass of wine in one hand and a smoke in the other, and when I grow up I just want to be a kid again.
What a wonderful part of your family history and a delicious sounding meal! A great way to enjoy potatoes, cheese, bacon and of course Vodka!!